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I dislike some of the language used in the book, but I realize that this is a non-fiction book and he must report conversations accurately. I recommend the book to everyone who is interested in a truthful look at the rest of the world at the time of Mr. Paul Theroux has done a magnificent job of combining an entertaining travel log with a no-nonsense look at the political, social, and financial issues of each country, city, and village that he visits. All in all, I enjoyed the book and feel I am better educated about some of the world than I was before. Theroux's travels in the subject area. Additionally, he delves into the personality traits of the various people and governmental authorities he encounters. Consequently, I have a much better understanding of why these countries are the way they are.
Hence, it is a shame to end the book with an inane diatribe that is as self-assured and pompous as anything that comes out of the Ohio missionary.Ultimately, I found the cocksure denouncements of both aid workers and missionaries from a man concerned with procuring himself an 'authentic' African experience too much. Because Theroux was quite perceptive of the complexities of African life, it is a shame that his notion of Christianity in Africa is every bit as simplistic as a fundamentalist's biblical literalism. He admires the courage of the martyred Father John Kaiser in Kenya, and the nuns whose commitment to Africa runs deeper than any aid worker. Dark Star Safari is both fascinating and supremely self-indulgent. By the end of the book, he was insufferable. However, Theroux ignores the fact that many of the agencies he criticizes by name are largely staffed by Africans, and not by foreigners. Theroux may be an irritable crank, but his portraits of Malawi and Zimbabwe in particular give remarkable insight into what has changed in Africa and why.I think many readers familiar with Africa will be receptive to his criticism of foreign aid agencies for creating a dependence on donor money throughout the continent. This may not seem like a major oversight, but he is constantly harping on the failures of foreign "agents of virtue" joy-riding around Africa in fancy Land Rovers, but one wonders if he might have actually observed some relief work instead of just cursing the aid workers who didn't feel like giving him a lift when he stuck his thumb out.Where he ultimately lost me was in his belittling, self-righteous rant directed at a missionary from Ohio he met on a train in Mozambique.
The thing I liked least about the book was Theroux's unending fascination with prostitution, female circumcision and how often Africans have sex. I also left with a keen appreciation of the varied cultures and geography that make up the continent and some insights into why one-size solutions will probably fail. Only mentioned with a sly wink or nudge, these topics were not broached in any meaningful way and would have, for the most part, been better either left out or explored further. His criticisms were harsh at times, but seemingly voiced out of true concern for Africa and its people. I think both sides have valid points. Dark Star Safari has generated widely differing reviews. Some people find Theroux's insights into contemporary Africa well-informed and valuable. The author's self-designed "safari" takes him from Cairo to Capetown on everything from careening minibuses and broken down steamers to luxury trains and dugout canoes.
These conversations don't make the author likeable in the least, but they do make for an interesting read. Faced with several harrowing situations and many nights in uncomfortable conditions, I found Theroux's complaints valid as presented. Also irritatingly, Theroux spends numerous hours in the book working on an erotic story which is not included in the text either.Nevertheless, the story wouldn't be the story without Theroux and in my opinion he is a lot like someone you meet at a dinner party -- full of bold swashbuckling stories and opinions on everything, a conversation partner you feel lucky to get to pass the time with, but not someone you'd want to spend every waking hour with. It gave me a better understanding of how different Africa truly is (like a dark star), how severe its problems are, and how difficult they will be to solve. Along the way Theroux can't help but keep reminding us that he is seeing the Africa most people never experience because he is willing to travel without an itinerary and passively outwait the delays. For me, Dark Star Safari lived up to its name. Others deride him as a constant complainer, arrogant know-it-all and secret hater of all things African.
As handled, these topics only reinforce my perception of Theroux as an aging alpha (at least in his own mind) male. Other times his comments (particularly about tourists visiting Egyptian ruins and East African game parks) degenerate into nastiness and serve only to underscore that he is losing his battle with time and becoming an old crank.The two things I enjoyed most about Theroux's recounting of his journey were the way he wove history (both ancient and contemporary) into the narrative and the pains he took to continue asking difficult questions (why Africans are so violent, why international aid fails in Africa, what missionaries think they are actually bringing to Africa) well past the point of politeness. This is a fast-paced narrative that quickly takes the reader off the beaten African track. At times he comes across as smug.
His intelligent insights would find a better audience on CNN than on the Travel Channel. His take on the state of affairs from Cairo to Capetown is especially significant since he could compare it to the time he spent there in his twenties. And having the same take on "tourists", I doubt I'd be able to travel on a package junket without being constantly judgmental.
As Theroux writes in its close, the traveler comes home a different person. Especially at his age. An amazing adventure story.
I've done some similar traveling in younger days, but doubt I'd be able to make it the whole nine yards anymore (Paul must be in his mid- 60's and I'm 58) -- he certainly puts me to shame. May they be a lesson to anyone who thinks the best way to help poorer nations is to try to make them like ours. So does the reader.
To me, Theroux's stamina and spunk are amazing.
His best since Riding the Iron Rooster. A fascinating read from start to finish. Theroux's reporting seems balanced and realistic.
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